Graffiti is a major aspect of the cultural life of the favelas. It is often, but not always, associated with gangs. However good graffiti artists are respected and can usually avoid trouble if not connected to any organised criminal group. In this case, what you cannot see, just out of shot to the right is a small group of armed young men, one with the unmistakable weapon of choice of revolutionaries, insurgents and criminals the world over, the AK-47. I was told not to look at them, but the guy with the rifle gave me a nod and a smile when I said the graffiti was ‘legal’ (cool). He obviously didn’t see me as any kind of a threat!